达沃斯的帽子秀 Hats off at Davos
英国《金融时报》
范妮莎•弗瑞德曼 报道
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Reading the FT’s live blog from Davos as I sit warm in my hotel room in Paris, I was struck that among the debates on income inequality, critiques of Angela Merkel’s speech, and the growing concerns of the private equity folks about the end of their special tax status, one of the few topics everyone agreed on was the importance of hats.
| 坐在巴黎温暖的酒店房间阅读英国《金融时报》的达沃斯(Davos)直播博客时,我注意到了一件事儿:在收入不均引发的辩论中,在对安格拉•默克尔(Angela Merkel)讲话的批评中,在私人股本行业那些家伙们对特殊税收地位的终结表达的担忧中,有一个话题——它是为数很少的、但所有人都能达成共识的话题之一——那就是,帽子很重要。
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Indeed, before the repercussions of George Soros’s lunchtime talk were analysed, his special hat was noted, and compared with the bigger furry hat of FT columnist Martin Wolf. Personally, however, I think both pale in comparison to the enormous furry gloves worn by Sir Martin Sorrell of WPP.
| 确实如此。人们在分析乔治•索罗斯(George Soros)午餐讲话引起的反响之前,先注意到的是他戴的那顶特别的帽子,并把它与英国《金融时报》专栏作家马丁•沃尔夫(Martin Wolf)戴的那顶更大的皮草帽子做了对比。不过,我个人认为,在WPP首席执行官苏铭天爵士(Sir Martin Sorrell)戴的那双巨型皮草手套面前,这两顶帽子都黯然失色。
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The accessory issue is interesting. I had a number of conversations with colleagues last week about what they were going to wear to Switzerland and though everyone seemed to have sussed the need for snow boots, and the importance of a black trouser suit above all other garments when inside, no one mentioned hats. Clearly, that was an oversight.
| 配饰是个很有趣的问题。上周,我与几位同事交谈,问他们打算穿什么去瑞士。尽管几乎每个人都觉得雪地靴很重要,而在室内必须穿黑色西装,但没人提到帽子。显然,这是一个疏忽。
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Here’s the problem: though meetings and seminars and speeches may take place indoors, where the black trouser suit does, indeed, serve well, interviews, especially TV interviews that are broadcast all over the world, seem to take place outside, the better to have some snow-capped mountains in the backdrop. And outside, while your coat matters, actually it’s the hat and scarf that are the most visible (interviews tend to be largely done from the shoulders up) – plus, for anyone who talks with their hands, the gloves. Yet it’s the hat and scarf and gloves that are often the least considered part of any wardrobe. Oops.
| 问题来了:尽管会议、讨论和演讲通常在室内进行,确实适合穿黑色西装,但采访(特别是面向全球直播的电视采访)却通常在室外进行——最好是能有雪山作背景。到了室外,虽然你的外套很重要,但其实最显眼的却是帽子和围巾(电视采访时大多只拍肩部以上的部分)。另外,对于那些讲话时喜欢打手势的人来说,手套也是最显眼的。然而,帽子、围巾和手套,却常常是人们在着装时考虑得最少的部分,哎呀……
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Sir Martin, for example, also wore an eye-catching Crayola-bright striped scarf that when combined with his furry gloves made him look distractingly like a child’s teddy bear. Dennis Nally, chairman of PwC, had on some black leather gloves that probably seemed innocuous enough when he tossed them in his carry-on, but that in photos call to mind all sorts of associations with bad guys pulling on gloves so they don’t leave fingerprints – not exactly the image an executive wants to convey these days.
| 举例来说,苏铭天爵士还系了一条抢眼的彩色条纹围巾,配上那双皮草手套,让他看上去颇像小孩子玩的泰迪熊。普华永道(PwC)董事长戴瑞礼(Dennis Nally)戴了一双黑色皮手套。当初他把这双手套扔进行李箱时或许没有意识到会有什么问题,但在照片里,这双手套却让人联想起坏蛋们为防止留下指纹而戴的手套——这可不是一位高管如今想要展现的形象。
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By contrast, the award for smartest outerwear thus far goes to Azim Premji, chairman of Wipro Ltd, whose red scarf was not only mediagenic and face-framing, nicely set off against a dark coat and suit, but was also looped with the sort of skill you see more often at menswear shows than economic forums. What other hidden talents does Mr Premji have?
| 相形之下,最佳着装奖到目前为止应由威普罗(Wipro)董事长阿齐姆•普莱姆基(Azim Premji)获得。他那条红色围巾不仅上镜、衬托脸型、与深色外套和西装很搭,系法上更像是一个男装秀上的系法、在经济论坛上非常罕见。我很好奇,普莱姆基还有什么别的深藏不露的天分?
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The next few days will tell, I supposed, as well as treating us to some more choice headgear.
| 我想,在未来几天里,这个问题会有答案。这场帽子秀在未来几天也会更加丰富。
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| 译者/吴蔚
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